Bordierhutte über das Gletschertor12.08.2023
Routenbeschreibung
Bordierhütte SAC (2886m)
Bordierhutte über das Gletschertor
Route starting from parking at Gassenried. Following signs for Gletschertor and Bordierhutte. Once reaching the glacier moraine Plateau, take a left leaving the official hiking path and remain on the right hand side of the glacier water stream/river working your way up the Moraine. Towards the end of the moraine stay. Little higher roughly in the middle and cross the last section of the Moraine to the base of the wall. This section is a little tricky to cross, there is still quite a bit of "Dead ice" under the rubble/dirt fields so be careful. On the opposite side of the moraine there was evidence of hollow sections of ice and small "landslide" activity. Cracks are visible in the Moraine so obviously a fair bit of movement still happening.
Once at the base of the wall head on up enjoy the pitches on great rock. ( Please note, first bolt on the second pitch is lightly damaged due to rockfall) I managed to reshape the bolt so it can be still clipped and used. All anchors on our route "Gletschertor 5c/ Sac Oberwallis plasir" where in great condition as well as the bolts. With an easy top out there is an enjoyable scramble over slabby but easy Terrain back to the new route leading to Bordierhutte. The scramble will pick up a marked way with Blue points on the rock.
A hidden gem and a nice variation to getting to the hut. If your your way to do an alpine tour, why not tag this on at the beginning for a bit of fun.
Once at the base of the wall head on up enjoy the pitches on great rock. ( Please note, first bolt on the second pitch is lightly damaged due to rockfall) I managed to reshape the bolt so it can be still clipped and used. All anchors on our route "Gletschertor 5c/ Sac Oberwallis plasir" where in great condition as well as the bolts. With an easy top out there is an enjoyable scramble over slabby but easy Terrain back to the new route leading to Bordierhutte. The scramble will pick up a marked way with Blue points on the rock.
A hidden gem and a nice variation to getting to the hut. If your your way to do an alpine tour, why not tag this on at the beginning for a bit of fun.
Multi pitch climbing gear, 12 express minimum and a couple Cams and nuts as backup.
Approach from Gassenried via the Gletschertor with top out and scramble back onto the "neueroute" to Bordierhutte
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Aktuelle Verhältnisse in der Umgebung
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Metadaten
Bordierhütte SAC (2886m)
Bordierhutte über das Gletschertor
Karte