Direttissima Pe-Borgini28.08.2012
Routenbeschreibung
Mittelrück (3363m)
Direttissima Pe-Borgini
The Pizzo di Loranco east face direttissima offers good climbing on a very steep face. The gneiss on the so called 'shield' is solid with very exposed climbing, unfortunately sometimes on rock covered in black lichen. The lower slabs are a bit broken and although the climbing is not to hard it is a little bit exposed.
The hard climbing starts straight of the grassy ledge. 2 relatively short pitches weave through the overhanging rock. These are followed by 3 easier pitches. The next 3 pitches climb the steepest and cleanest part of the shield. After you reach the ledge two more pitches lead to easier scrambling through loose rock to the summit.
Doubles ropes, a fair set of cams and some nuts. We took a double set of BD C3 (the small cams were very usefull on the overhanging 7a pitch) and C4 up to #2. A hammer and pegs might come in handy for reinforcing the belays. A large cam (BD C4, #4) can be of use on the flake-pitch.
The descent is easy. Start by scrambling west, then south on loose rock, followed by a short horizontal stretch of snowfield to the col. This is descended to the south by the new via ferrata. 1:30 to 2 hours.
The hard climbing starts straight of the grassy ledge. 2 relatively short pitches weave through the overhanging rock. These are followed by 3 easier pitches. The next 3 pitches climb the steepest and cleanest part of the shield. After you reach the ledge two more pitches lead to easier scrambling through loose rock to the summit.
Doubles ropes, a fair set of cams and some nuts. We took a double set of BD C3 (the small cams were very usefull on the overhanging 7a pitch) and C4 up to #2. A hammer and pegs might come in handy for reinforcing the belays. A large cam (BD C4, #4) can be of use on the flake-pitch.
The descent is easy. Start by scrambling west, then south on loose rock, followed by a short horizontal stretch of snowfield to the col. This is descended to the south by the new via ferrata. 1:30 to 2 hours.
From Rifugio Andolla to Bivacco Varese. 4 to 5 hours. Beautiful walk.
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Mittelrück (3363m)
Direttissima Pe-Borgini
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