Verhältnisse vom 18.02.2003
Le Fil a Plomb
Wir sind in Plan du Midi biwak gesschlafen. Es war mehr als -20°C drinnen...
Conditions in the route are bad. It took us more than 3 hours just for the approach, soft powder snow with occasional crust, which doesn't hold body weight.
First 100m, above bergschrund to the couloir - snow was very soft, but at the beginning of the couloir it was better. The first pitch we belayed had unconsolidated snow on slabby granite, then we simulclimbed to the crux pitch. Ice was very thin (check comparison on http://www.planid.org (Chamonix)), and part of this pitch also fell off. No protection except for one piton at the beginning.
Conditions in the route are bad. It took us more than 3 hours just for the approach, soft powder snow with occasional crust, which doesn't hold body weight.
First 100m, above bergschrund to the couloir - snow was very soft, but at the beginning of the couloir it was better. The first pitch we belayed had unconsolidated snow on slabby granite, then we simulclimbed to the crux pitch. Ice was very thin (check comparison on http://www.planid.org (Chamonix)), and part of this pitch also fell off. No protection except for one piton at the beginning.
I have heard that conditions in Argentiere bassin should be ok. Strong winds will form bigger cornices and windblown snow (avalanche) danger will rise.
Routeninformationen
Le Fil a Plomb
Letzte Änderung: 20.02.2003, 20:49Aufrufe: 297 mal angezeigt