Galehorn (2797m)15.12.2024
Verhältnisse vom 09.08.2023
Nadelgrat (4327m): Vollständiger Nadelgrat ab Bordierhütte
Breakfast at 2. Leave at 2:30.
Weather forecast was sunny with some wind. 2 Italian ropes (3&2) 2 Swiss ropes (2) and us (Dutch, 2).
Sometimes difficult navigation to Galenjoch. Then on the ridge it becomes easier. 1 abseil from summit of Chli Dürrenhorn and then proceed in short rope. 3b passage on the way to Dürrenhorn was easy (stance at the top). 6 hours from the hut. Some clouds. Descent to Dürrenjoch easy but at least 30 mins. After some more rock we need the crampons for first time, but my friend's are gone! We walk back little bit and come across the Italians who found them at the Dürrenhorn and took them! Grazie Mille! We continue to the Hohbarghorn with crampons in increasing wind and decreasing visability, no turning back now. Reach Hohberghorn after a slow 2.5 hours from Dürrenhorn, but even without losing crampons, I don't think we could have gone faster than 2 hours. Easy snow descent on wide ridge with good steps and we took the crampons off to climb the scary looking Stecknadelhorn ridge. Climbing more exposed but good holds and we barely needed to belay anything. I think 1.5 hours to the top for us. At this point we couldn't see more than 15 meters most of the time and the wind became very strong. Frost was starting to form on the rocks and all our stuff. Now we go down and on the snow towards Nadelhorn. But we can't see anything. How far away is the normal route?? We decided to stick to the rocks on the ridge. This unexpectedly became the crux of the route for us. Before this, easy climbing and navigation on surprisingly good rock/holds but now all we can see is very difficult and tricky climbing, everything is frozen and the wind sounds and feels like a small hurricane. We somehow continue along the ridge with much more belaying and difficult route finding until we think we see the NE ridge and make a run for it. Barely any tracks but we go up and see the cross after 10 minutes. Now finally go down to Mischabelhütte, I feel pretty tired and frozen and for some reason my eyes don't see well but we're almost there and my friend is still strong. We go 11:45 from Bordierhütte to Nadelhorn (Nadelhorn cost a lot of time). ~14 hours hut to hut.
Long tour, 10 hours from Bordierhütte to Nadelhorn maybe was almost possible for us in good weather and not losing crampons ;) Good fitness is required though, for me it was tough.
Weather forecast was sunny with some wind. 2 Italian ropes (3&2) 2 Swiss ropes (2) and us (Dutch, 2).
Sometimes difficult navigation to Galenjoch. Then on the ridge it becomes easier. 1 abseil from summit of Chli Dürrenhorn and then proceed in short rope. 3b passage on the way to Dürrenhorn was easy (stance at the top). 6 hours from the hut. Some clouds. Descent to Dürrenjoch easy but at least 30 mins. After some more rock we need the crampons for first time, but my friend's are gone! We walk back little bit and come across the Italians who found them at the Dürrenhorn and took them! Grazie Mille! We continue to the Hohbarghorn with crampons in increasing wind and decreasing visability, no turning back now. Reach Hohberghorn after a slow 2.5 hours from Dürrenhorn, but even without losing crampons, I don't think we could have gone faster than 2 hours. Easy snow descent on wide ridge with good steps and we took the crampons off to climb the scary looking Stecknadelhorn ridge. Climbing more exposed but good holds and we barely needed to belay anything. I think 1.5 hours to the top for us. At this point we couldn't see more than 15 meters most of the time and the wind became very strong. Frost was starting to form on the rocks and all our stuff. Now we go down and on the snow towards Nadelhorn. But we can't see anything. How far away is the normal route?? We decided to stick to the rocks on the ridge. This unexpectedly became the crux of the route for us. Before this, easy climbing and navigation on surprisingly good rock/holds but now all we can see is very difficult and tricky climbing, everything is frozen and the wind sounds and feels like a small hurricane. We somehow continue along the ridge with much more belaying and difficult route finding until we think we see the NE ridge and make a run for it. Barely any tracks but we go up and see the cross after 10 minutes. Now finally go down to Mischabelhütte, I feel pretty tired and frozen and for some reason my eyes don't see well but we're almost there and my friend is still strong. We go 11:45 from Bordierhütte to Nadelhorn (Nadelhorn cost a lot of time). ~14 hours hut to hut.
Long tour, 10 hours from Bordierhütte to Nadelhorn maybe was almost possible for us in good weather and not losing crampons ;) Good fitness is required though, for me it was tough.
If it wasn't for the weather, the conditions were excellent. Not so much ice on descent of Nadelhorn, the rock climbing is nice, barely a need for belaying. Good for some more weeks for sure. If it gets very warm, you can always take a couple ice screws.
Letzte Änderung: 10.08.2023, 08:32Aufrufe: 2651 mal angezeigt
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Nadelgrat (4327m)
Vollständiger Nadelgrat ab Bordierhütte
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